Dave and I visited western Ireland in the company of archaeologists and ghosts. We tromped through the long grasses, wet by rain, into burial chambers thousands of years old. We visited friends in long-suffering Galway and attended an unforgettable concert by classical guitar rock musicians Rodrigo y Gabriela. Everywhere the indefatigable spirit of the Irish held heads high. They were prepared to shoulder taxes that might extend into the next generation to rescue their beleaguered nation.

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